My Sigma Art Lens Has a Loose Piece How Do I Tighten

Introduction

My favorite super-wide lens did not survive a five foot drop onto a concrete flooring. (Nor did my photographic camera, but that'south another story.) This repair guide will evidence how to tear down the lens and repair a major structural component. Information technology volition also get deeper to bear witness the zoom and focus mechanisms.

A word of warning about disassembling the autofocus mechanism - don't do information technology unless you A) really, actually have to or B) are insatiably curious. Most of the repair guides out there usually stop in the phrase "just my autofocus isn't working." Personally, I haven't figured out the surreptitious to putting these suckers back together. The all-time I could practise with mine is get information technology "kind of working". And then, have that to centre, and let's get to it!

• Fantastic little APS-C format lens. Annotation the big bulbous front element.







• There are a guhzillion tiny screws and pieces in this lens. Become a agglomeration of ziplock baggies to concord each slice and its screws. Trust me on this.

• Remove the four screws property the blackness heart slice. There'southward one screw that sticks out a bit - no need to remove that one.

• Remove the central black piece. The camera connector plate will hang loose for a while.

• Remove the iv screws holding the mounting plate. Lift off the mounting plate. (Photograph shows inner components in place.)

• Remove the four spacer rings beneath the mounting plate. Be careful non to bend the brass rings.

• Unscrew the 2 screws belongings the focus switch plate. The plate should only fall off.

• In that location is one screw securing the top encompass. Remove the screw and lift off the cover.

• The ribbon cables are inserted into like shooting fish in a barrel click connectors. Advisedly pull out the retaining sliders and remove the cables.

• Remove the ane screw property the autofocus switch. Remove the switch. It's sticky on the back and then it will take a bit of levering.

• Unscrew the two screws securing the circuit lath. Remove the board.

• Remove the rubber grip around the zoom band.

• Pare off the copper tape covering the zoom encoder fingers.

• Unscrew and remove the zoom encoder fingers. Be careful - these fingers are very delicate.

• Remove the screw deep inside the contumely zoom stop. Grab the zoom stop with tweezers. Jerk information technology until information technology comes free.

• If you want, or need to, you can remove the zoom ring. Rotate information technology and gently pull up until information technology pops off. Leave information technology in place if you can to prevent damage to the encoder.

• In example you're interested (and admit it, you are) there is no screw underneath the pretty SIGMA DG sticker.

• Remove the three screws effectually the outer ring. Elevator off the zoom ring assembly. Don't snag the ribbon cables.

• If the lens takes a difficult hit, information technology is this zoom assembly that will probably break . In my case a couple of the support studs snapped off.

• Glue any broken pieces with strongest epoxy mucilage y'all can find. Superglue is probably not a good choice considering it won't handle any lateral knocks.

• Exist careful not to go glue where y'all don't want information technology. Utilize tape to continue the glue in identify.

• Put some weight on the assembly while the glue dries so that the repaired studs stay in position. If they are raised, fifty-fifty slightly, the lens alignment will be off.

• Try not to get mucilage downwards the outer side of the support stud. Excess gum will interfere with reassembly after. If gum does go far the wrong identify, carefully grind it down with a dremel tool once it hardens.

• The side by side step will free the lens unit of measurement from the focus barrel. If you don't properly support that large, bulbous, expensive front element it will fall clunk to the tabular array top.

• Take a blob of plasticine or playdough about the size of a tangerine. Stick it into a baggie (baggies are your friend!) and mold it into a flattened brawl with a paring near the size and shape of that large front element.

• Take a clean lens cloth and lay it on tiptop of the baggie. Nestle your lens into the paring. The plasticine should support the entire lens off the tabular array. I.e., the lens hood should not exist touching the table.

• The screws holding these pieces together are in there very tightly. Make sure your screwdriver has sufficient 'bite' or you will strip the caput (and then yous're in deep trouble). You may also have to push downwardly quite a scrap to go the screws to turn. Find a friend to hold the lens steady while yous exercise this.

• Unscrew the 5 screws around the top of the calorie-free greyness ring. This will free the lens unit from the focus barrel.

• Put a tab of masking tape, or an elastic ring, on the lens hood (not the focus ring). Marker the location of the ribbon cable. This volition save you much grief during reassembly.

• Danger! Your autofocus may never piece of work again if you go along past this point.

• Remove the four screws from the inner base of the zoom ring housing. They will require some torque to get them out. Make certain your screwdriver has enough 'seize with teeth' and push button downwardly while turning. Get your friend back in to hold the barrel steady.

• The housing will try to bound upward; unscrew the screws evenly and apply some downward pressure on the housing as you remove the screws.

• Remove all of the rings up to, simply not including, the 1 with the F stop labels. It won't come off - don't force information technology.

• With a small tipped tool, remove 2 of the three impossibly small plastic tabs from the barrel. Don't remove the one behind the F-stop characterization - it's a right pain to put back in.

• Remove the remaining rings including the contumely clutch plates.

• Remove the rubber focus grip. The focus grip is not interchangeable with the zoom grip. The focus grip has slightly finer "fingers".

• Remove the three screws and their bearings from the focus band.

• Pull the focus ring straight upwardly to remove.

• This teardown doesn't go any further. Become ahead and disassemble the lens unit if you dare.

• Reassembly is tricky; the remaining steps volition help you put information technology back together again.

• Drib on the focus ring and supervene upon the screws and bearings. Flip the bearing rings so that they nestle into the screws.

• Slip on the rubber focus grip. Use the one with the finer ribs.

• The society of assembly, from bottom to top is:

• Steel/plastic, brass clutch plates, focus indicator, black plastic, thin rubber, rotor (thick black), stator (funky contumely thing with a ribbon cablevision), fiber, dissever steel, fiber, steel (no carve up), thick brass, thin brass, spring.

• Insert the ring that is steel on 1 side and black plastic on the other. Plastic side goes downward. Engage the tabs into the focus ring.

• Drib in the clutch plates and engage the inner tabs into the central barrel. Be conscientious not to lose the tiny ball bearings in the plates.

• Drop on the focus indicator band. There are shallow indents on the bottom that engage the tabs on the bearing plates. (Shown here in an assembled country.)

• The ring can proceed two ways. Make sure the numbers are on the aforementioned side every bit that mark yous made earlier.

• Drib on the black plastic ring and rubber ring . The rubber ring should nestle nicely into the plastic ring.

• The focus label should be on the aforementioned side every bit the marking on the lens hood.

• The rotor is the moving part of the ultrasonic wave motor. Information technology'southward the metal ring that'south black on one side, shiny on the other. Drop it on with the shiny side down. (Sorry, no motion-picture show.)

• The stator is the stock-still one-half of the ultrasonic wave motor.

• Insert the impossibly minor plastic tabs into the main butt. These hold the stator in the correct position.

• Drop on the stator with the wire pointing up. There are indents on the inside that line up with the impossibly small plastic tabs.

• The stator will continue three means. Make sure the ribbon cable aligns with the marker yous made before.

• Drop on the remaining rings in this order:

• Fiber band, split metal ring (it has a little tab that engages into the barrel), the other fiber ring, solid metal ring, brass rings, leap. (Apologies for the crap picture.)

• Drib on the metal zoom barrel. Secure with the four screws.

• Drop the focus assembly onto the main lens module. Exist conscientious with the ribbon cables.

• Align the five spiral holes. Secure with screws.

• Drop on the zoom associates. Advisedly thread the focus encoder cablevision through the slot.

• Align the spiral holes and secure.

• Rotate the zoom ring until the oval hole lines up with its mate on the lens module. Insert brass pivot and secure with a screw.

• Reattach the zoom encoder fingers and copper tape.

• Supercede the safety zoom grip.

• Reinstall the circuit board with the two screws.

• Replace the zoom switch.

• Insert all ribbon cables and firmly (but carefully) click the connectors in to identify.

• Insert the photographic camera connector cablevision and click the connector.

• Driblet on the superlative comprehend and align with the screw holes. The large side fits over the zoom switch.

• Secure with ane screw. The screw hole is slightly deeper than the other holes.

• Make sure the interior and exterior zoom switches are in the same position. They must line upwardly when you lot replace the embrace.

• Replace the zoom switch cover and secure with two screws.

• Replace the spacer rings. The brass rings go on the bottom, the thickest black ring is on summit. The rings fit onto a tab that keeps them aligned. Make certain the holes line up with the spiral holes in assembly below.

• Drop on the mounting plate. The long leg goes inside the lens and into a hole in the key lens assembly; it's like shooting fish in a barrel to see.

• Secure the mounting plate with four screws. The shorter screw is straight reverse the red dot.

• Attach the photographic camera connector plate with two screws. These screws have a effectively thread than the others.

• Insert the black center piece. Secure with the remaining two coarse-thread screws.

Conclusion

Mount onto a camera and you're good to get!

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Source: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Repairing+Sigma+8-16+mm+lens/44742

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